Beaming a broad smile towards the camera, María Guðmundsdóttir’s personality is writ large on her playful social media posts. A passionate advocate for more women cycling and multiple Icelandic National Cycling Champion, the past year has seen her racing a series of events with the Café du Cycliste Gravel Team. In a conversation punctuated with laughter, María discusses the reasons she rides, the joy she finds in time spent outdoors and why we should all dance a little more.
cyclespeak
You’re at home in Iceland. Is that where you usually work?
María
If I need people around me, I just go to a coffee house but most of the time I work from home.
cyclespeak
I’m intrigued by your family name: Guðmundsdóttir. Has this got a special meaning?
María
Here in Iceland – we are not many [laughs] – and every girl is named daughter of their father.
cyclespeak
What was it like growing up as a child?
María
I was born on the west side of the island. Quite remote with high mountains and hard winters. I lived there until I was 20 years old and spent most of my spare time skiing. I just loved bad weather as it meant more snow.
cyclespeak
Do you have any personality traits that are typically Icelandic?
María
In Iceland, everything depends on the weather. You can make a plan but the chance of it not working out as you imagine is huge. So it’s really Icelandic to not think too much about things and we have this phrase Þetta Reddast that basically means ‘it will be fine’. And that’s very much the kind of person I am. I love to have my life open to whatever comes to me.


cyclespeak
You mentioned growing up skiing. So where does the bike fit in?
María
Naturally I had a bike as a child. But every child can cycle in Iceland because if your parents cannot provide a bike, the Government will. And when I got pregnant in 2007 after I’d moved to Reykjavik, I decided to buy myself a bike as a present for giving birth to my first daughter [laughs].
cyclespeak
That seems fair.
María
And then I saw an advertisement for the biggest mountain bike race in Iceland—the Blue Lagoon Challenge. How could I have such a fancy bike and not participate? So I signed up and that’s how it all started.
cyclespeak
Did you enjoy the race?
María
The course was 60km and it never stopped raining. I was really tired and covered in mud when I finished but I’d never felt more alive.
cyclespeak
You mentioned the weather. Can you ride year round in Iceland or are there distinct seasons?
María
I ride all year but there are many days when you just have to turn around and head home because of the crazy weather. Last winter the snowfall was so heavy that it was difficult to ride anywhere but on the snow ploughed streets. So I went out during office hours when people were at work and made sure I was home before 4:00pm when the roads got busier. And they usually keep the cycle paths in Reykjavik pretty clear. If they don’t, the people quickly let them know about it [laughs].
cyclespeak
This year’s race season got underway with you riding for the Café du Cycliste Gravel Team at the Traka.
María
I’ve been working with Café du Cycliste on their photo shoots for almost three years. And then late last year they contacted me to ask if I wanted to compete in the Roc d’Azur gravel race out of Nice. That went really well – I came second – and they explained how they were building a gravel racing team and asked if I would be interested in joining. My first thought? Do they know how old I am?
cyclespeak
Maybe they were focusing, not on your 41 years, but on your 20 Icelandic National titles?
María
Possibly [laughs]. And this was a serious venture. They explained how I needed to be in good shape and train but also keep having fun on my bike. So I thought, well, the last condition is easy enough.

cyclespeak
So you joined the team.
María
I did. But at first I’ll admit to feeling a little shy about racing for Café du Cycliste. It was the first time they’d had their own team so it was a big honour to be asked.
cyclespeak
With the greatest respect, I’m finding it difficult to imagine you feeling shy [smiles]. You always appear so in the moment and relaxed.
María
When they asked me, I didn’t even tell my boyfriend right away [laughs].
cyclespeak
Café du Cycliste is a brand with quite a unique design aesthetic that I’m guessing appeals to your sense of fun?
María
I was already a huge fan and loved how they made fashionable cycle wear that also performed brilliantly on the bike. And I can remember when I first talked to them, how I explained that I was a little starstruck.
cyclespeak
With your personality, you make a great combination.
María
I guess so. And it’s perfect for Iceland. I look at the weather and pick an appropriate outfit.
cyclespeak
Once again riding for Café du Cycliste, June saw you line up for Unbound—considered by many to be the calendar’s biggest gravel race. But I believe the logistics of travelling to the US were also pretty testing?
María
That’s a crazy story. My journey began to unravel before I’d even left Iceland when I was standing in the wrong queue and nearly missed my flight. I had to run [laughs].


cyclespeak
You were flying to Newark?
María
And then the plan was to take a connecting flight to Texas and finally Kansas. But first I had to pass through US Immigration Control. After two hours of queuing, I finally got to the border officers and they asked if I had any foodstuffs. I answered, ‘Yeah, I’m fine, I’ve got a banana and some other things’. So they immediately took me to one side and started to search all my bags which meant I missed my flight. So I had to wait in Newark for hours and to end a perfect day the thunderstorm came. And everything just stopped [laughs].
cyclespeak
I remember the storm was on the news.
María
After spending a night sleeping on the terminal floor, I had to quickly decide which flight to take. Choosing a connection through Denver, I finally got in the air again only to discover I was flying over Kansas [laughs].
cyclespeak
Not what you call perfect preparation for a 200 mile gravel race.
María
It took me 39 hours in total from leaving home to arriving in Emporia and when I did finally get there I had no luggage. No clothes, no helmet, no shoes, no bike. It wasn’t until the Friday evening, 12 hours before the race start, that my bags turned up. But even though I was desperately tired, lining up at the start line was pretty awesome.
cyclespeak
How did you find the race? Did you – and I’m quoting a post you made – cry halfway round in all that heat? And was there an ice cream waiting for you at the finish line?
María
I started well but after two hours I was just empty. So when I got to the first aid station I stopped. I wasn’t sad – I didn’t cry [laughs] – because everything had been such a mess and it just wasn’t my time.
cyclespeak
And the ice cream at the finish?
María
Of course! And because my team is so awesome we celebrated the race at a typical American bar with country music, dancing and everyone wearing cowboy hats.

cyclespeak
Is Unbound unfinished business?
María
I don’t know.
[Pauses]
Some people need to tick boxes. I don’t.
cyclespeak
After Unbound you raced on home soil in the Rift. As a 20x Icelandic National Champion, does that bring with it a sense of expectation on how you’ll perform?
María
Yes, I suppose it does.
cyclespeak
Is that a good or bad thing?
María
In the past I thought about it a lot but now? I’m riding for myself and there’s less pressure.
cyclespeak
Maybe that comes with age. There’s less of a need to meet the expectations of others?
María
I can see that. And I wonder if María is changing. I love racing and pushing hard but I also enjoy just riding my bike purely for pleasure. Taking in all the surroundings rather than staring at the wheel in front of me [smiles].
cyclespeak
Your boyfriend is also an Icelandic National Cycling Champion. Do family rides ever get competitive?
María
No [laughs]. He’s faster than me.


cyclespeak
You’re fast enough to get second place in a recent race in Italy which means you’ve qualified for the UCI World Gravel Championships in October. That’s kind of a big deal?
María
But I’m not nervous.
cyclespeak
No?
María
Just excited. Which means I have no expectations and will just hit it. Full gas and see what happens [laughs].
cyclespeak
Leading such a busy life, is timetabling a challenge you welcome?
María
Yes. And that’s my problem. I like being busy. But I recently made the decision to only work part-time as I need time with my girls and time to ride my bike.
cyclespeak
No matter whether you’re riding, racing or on a photo shoot, you always have the biggest smile.
María
It’s how I am. Often my boyfriend says, ‘María, you need to cool it down’ [laughs].
cyclespeak
And you also love to dance?
María
I do. I dance a lot. With my girls, by myself. If you allow yourself to move – and I’m not a good dancer – then you’re more open to all kinds of situations.
cyclespeak
Does this same sense of movement apply to your bike?
María
Before I go to bed and when I wake up, I often go outside and [Maria breathes in deeply and exhales]. For my sense of wellbeing I need to spend time outdoors and cycling gives me that. It just feels so good to be pedalling.
All photography for Café du Cycliste including images by Benedict Campbell, Christophe Flemin and Violette Franchi